It’s quite a feat to surprise a Chef.
We all have our favorite proteins that we know our guests will eat and are cost effective to serve. We have our favorite techniques and although we are a curious bunch, things tend to follow along the same line. Especially regarding sustainable seafood. Halibut in March, Spot Prawns and Wild BC Salmon in May and so on and so on. These are important species to feature, especially when it comes to a local, sustainable fishing perspective, but when something else comes along, it’s important to be a little more adaptive.
If you happened to make it to our Chefs Table Society annual general meeting, perhaps you had a chance to try that ‘something else’. Tucked in the corner, the seafood Godfather himself, Robert Clark, was showcasing a pretty special bite. Deceptively simple, a soy marinated Greenland Turbot on nori with slaw and my favorite condiment, kewpie mayo.
The bite itself was delicious, very balanced and delightful, but it was the Greenland Turbot that really stole the show. I wasn’t the only one who thought so. In a recent meeting, Sid Cross mentioned how spectacular he found the Turbot and the whole board was in agreement. It’s special, its story is spectacular and it’s the perfect thing to highlight when we’re thinking about what to put in front of our diners this spring.
I had a great chat with Colin Aspinall, a familiar face from Organic Ocean about what really makes this Turbot so great.
So, the fish itself is actually scientifically known as Greenland Halibut, Baffin Island Turbot or Pangnirtung Turbot. Don’t be fooled though, it’s much different than its cousin, the halibut we all know and love. Colin says that “Other than sharing the name, they’re very different. (It has) a soft texture, more like a sole. It’s almost like a love child of sablefish and sole. Buttery oiliness but the really nice soft texture. Super clean flavour.” If that doesn’t whet your appetite, I’m not sure what will. The delicious, 4 filet flat fish, has an astonishingly high oil content that lends itself to preparations like Rob Clark’s soy marinated creation.
Flavor aside, what’s really interesting about this particular fish, is its story. Pangnirtung Turbot is fished traditionally by Inuit fisherman in the icy waters of the Canadian Arctic, just off the coast of Baffin Island. From January to March, they head out on the freezing ice in their skidoos, looking for the best spots. Let’s not forget that the temperatures up there at this time are usually around –40C. When they find their spots, they auger into the ice and drop their lines. “It’s like ice fishing on steroids’, Colin says, and I can’t disagree. They fish the Turbot with traditional drop hook-and-line methods, which is wild, considering these fish love to hang out between 750-900 meters. That’s almost 1 Km that they’re pulling these gorgeous fish up to harvest. Sustainably speaking, it’s in the green.
The Nations receive a large quota of these fish, about 1.5 million pounds, and there are economic incentives for them to fish in this manner. Job creation, feeding their community and continuing to teach traditional fishing techniques to their youth to name a few. In the summer, once the thick ice has melted, the fish is still harvested. Unfortunately, it is in a much less sustainable manner, both for the environment and health of the ocean as well as for the quality of the fish. Trawlers pay to come in and drag net for the Turbot which we all know is not great.
That’s why Organic Ocean has such an interest in this particular winter harvest. Founded by two fisherman, Dane Chauvel and Steve Johansen, they are champions of sustainably harvested seafood with their two main objectives being shortening supply lines and drawing attention to the plight of the seafood industry in Canada. “It’s no bullshit.”, Colin says “I’m not trying to convince people to settle for something that isn’t exactly what they want. There’s just such an honesty about the Organic Ocean products that makes it something that I’m proud to offer and proud to bring to Chefs.” An honesty and a commitment to showcasing incredible products like this Pangnirtung Turbot. Organic Ocean has partnered with Authentic Indigenous Seafood, sharing their Steveston facility with them and acting as the distributor of their delicious fish. I guess that’s an example of putting your money where your values are.
Voting with your wallet is something on everyone’s mind these days. With the American President’s tariffs threatening our economy, it’s an important time for everyone who is able, to support programs like this. It is a perfect opportunity to put our money in our own economy and showcase to our diners the beauty that is real, Canadian seafood. Which is why this Pangnirtung Turbot needs to be talked about. A beautiful fish, harvested in a sustainable manner by traditional methods. It really truly sells itself.
So, thank you Rob Clark and Colin Aspinall for showcasing this beautiful fish and its story at our AGM. It certainly had an impact on the board and the attendees. Can I make the comparison to Julia Child and her introduction to her viewers of Monkfish, leading to its success? Maybe that’s a little too far reaching, but products like thePangnirtung Turbot deserve to be recognized not just for their flavor but for their story and sustainability journey as well. So please, give Colin a call and order some for you to try at your restaurant. I promise you; you won’t be disappointed.
For more information on ‘Authentic Indigenous Seafood’, click here
For more information on ‘Organic Ocean’, click here
Thanks for reading!
Chef Stacy Johnston, VP CTS, Sustainability Co-Chair, Chef Poplar Grove